4/19/2015

Tine Sews: Three Times T-Shirts

Somentimes I spend a whole afternoon by myself, only accompanied by loud music and the occasional snack, in front of my sewing machine. I love these sewing sessions and it's a good way for me to rewind and relax after a week of working.
This weekend was the first one that I could really just do what I wanted to do and because I had this fabric lying around for quite some time already, I finally made the 2 metres I had into three t-shirts.
I assembled them in factory style, meaning I cut all the pieces first, then did all the serger seams and then hemmed them with a twin needle, which made for very efficient use of sewing time.
The first shirt is this army green/ khaki T-Shirt with gathered or ruched sleeves, which I've already made a couple of times. I love that the detail of the sleeves gives the whole shirt a unique look and sets it apart from the regular T-Shirt. Also, I kind of love raglan sleeves, so that's a good thing about the shirt as well.
For a simple look I combine the T-Shirt with my black skinny jeans and some moccassin boots. The gathering from the sleeves continues along the neckband, which wasn't intended, but looks fine anyway.
I used black serger thread and for the twin needle hem a navy and a black thread, because I didn't have a matching colour by hand.
Sway back can be easily identified.
The second T-Shirt I made is the same pattern only with long sleeves. I like to wear this on colder evenings, it's a nice layering piece.
 Gathers are nearly distributed evenly.
The fabric is a viscose jersey, so I need to be careful, what I'm wearing underneath, so that not every lump and bump is visible.
The third T-Shirt was intended to be a crop top, but then I didn't like the look anymore and added a strip to the hem. I think this shirt needs to be washed a couple of times until it fits right.
It's still a simple yet modern look and will be great for different outfits.
This bag was made a couple of weeks ago after finding it in a fabric shop nearby. The pattern repeat had exactly the right size to make a nice tote bag.

4/17/2015

Tine Sews: The Cusco Skirt

I actually made this skirt a while ago and wore it on the same night to go out dancing, but I just found these pictures on my hard drive. The skirt is made from a remnant that I had after making a drawstring bag from the fabric. We had that fabric at work, but it sold out before I could snag it, so I got mine at the Dutch fabric market. But the good news is, that we have similar fabrics back in stock this season. I'll link them for you at the end of this post.
The weave is quite stable, which I didn't consider, so the skirt sits a bit tight around the waist, but it's okay. Next time I make the skirt in a woven fabric, I'd add about a centimetre on either sideseam.

I used my trusted Burda pattern (issue 3/2002) again.
The button is from the parcel that I got from Sveta during the Spring Sewing Swap.
I finished the hem with a black bias tape. The length is slightly longer in the back than in the front, which I like at the moment.
I guess the skirt is going to be one of my favourites this summer, if I loose a centimetre of my waist circumference. Good motivation to attend my wheelgymnastics training more regularly again!

If you'd like to get some similar fabrics, check out these beautiful woven fabrics:
Weave Cusco 3 Weave Cusco 5 Weave Cusco 7

3/26/2015

Tine Sews: Inspired By Elsie Larson

Oh my god, I didn't realise how pale my legs are looking. It's really about time for spring to really start and get them some sun! Anyway, on the weekend, when I was in my sewing rush, I also made this simple, but really fun dress. It's basically just a Scout Tee that is longer and slightly flared, to give it a little bit swing.

I feel very much like Elsie Larson in that dress and so I named it my Elsie dress. I love the creativity of the creative brain behind A Beautiful Mess and can't live without a quick glimpse on the website once a day. I'm finding something new each time and love to get inspired on the blog and their Pinterest!
First I had a dress that was slightly longer than knee length and it looked really frumpy, so I cut off a strip before hemming. I might have chopped off a little bit too much of the length, but it's okay. For work I'd wear it with tights in the next weeks and in summer, I guess I'll just wear biker shorts beneath, especially if I bike to work.
The fabric was a remnant, which I got in Berlin last summer at one of the Karstadt stores. It's a lovely rayon and I really like the fun print, which looks like it's brushed on. I got 1.6 m and have a little leftover, that I might use for the sleeves or other parts of a shirt.
The boots I'm wearing are my favourite pink Bon Prix booties. I like them very much and can wear them with nearly anything, so fun!
I did a high-low-hem. Luckily, because otherwise the dress would definitely be too short to be appropriate for work. But I can get away with wearing this length for work, as it's pretty casual in our office. If you see one of my colleagues in a shirt, you know, that there is a very special guest in the house. Otherwise it's very jeans and t-shirt casual styled.
This is how I'd wear the dress in summer out and about. Just adding a denim vest, which I once got at my favourite thrift shop in Schenefeld and a fringed bag, which I got in a thrift shop in Istanbul last year.

PS: The "Diplom" which you can see on my little sidetable is the diploma of my grand father from when he passed the verification for being a tailor in 1957. My dad found it, when they cleaned up the house after the death of my grand mother and finally it has found a place in my home. I love being able to sort of use the inherited sewing genes and follow my passion now.

3/22/2015

Tine Sews: Inspired By The Seventies

I always wished to live in the Seventies. I guess, there'd be some things that I wouldn't have liked at that time, but I love the fashion of the Seventies and therfore I'm uber happy that this season also many fashion designers were inspired by the Seventies.

I already shared my favourite makes of last year and I still love my black flares. Today I want to show you the wearable muslin version. I used a blue denim, that I once got at work and which was the prefect muslin fabric for these flared jeans. In the final version I added some length, but otherwise I made it as seen on the blue version. The fit was quite good at the first try and I love the shape of the flare.

The blue dotted crop top was made using the leftover fabric I had from my dotted dress, which I made last summer.

For the jeans I made my own pattern, simply by changing the pattern pieces, that I use for jeans. It was actually quite simple. I measured the hem width of a pair of flares that I liked and beginning at some centimetres above the knee marking I angled the sideseam of the piece, so that I had the required hem width. Otherwise I didn't have to change anything, as the pattern was already high waisted. Though I split the back leg to have a yoke. For the pocket placement I got good advice, when I asked on Instagram during the making process.

For the crop top I used my GBSB book One pattern, that I also use for making blouses.

My wardrobe is very happy about the new addition of the flares and so am I. In many blogs you can read about making a coherent wardrobe and the Wardrobe Architect series of Coletterie is very useful to structure your ideas about the perfect wardrobe. In the beginning of the year I started to think about my wardrobe as well and made some resolutions. And I feel like it's getting somewhere. I started to edit the pieces that are in my closet and made some decisions about which pieces to sell and which to keep. I also started using more of my stash fabrics instead of always buying new fabrics - though I have to admit I had a bit of a fall back this weekend, when I bought three pieces, but they were all sewn into project already, so that's okay. I don't want to be strict on myself.

How is your wardrobe planning coming along?

2/16/2015

Tine Inspires: Brazilian Pattern Magazines

Maybe you've already seen it on Instagram? My uncle brought me these Brazilian sewing magazines from his recent trip to Brazil. They are from December and January and feature quite a vast range of patterns- even some bathing suits and bikinis again. I also found some cute tops, shorts and dresses. So far I didn't manage to actually sew anything from the Brazilian magazines that I got, so I'm not quite sure about the fit, but I might give them a try this year. I plan on making one or two pretty dresses this year, therefore I might find a sexy dress in there. My posts about the old issues are some of the most read posts on this blog, so I hope that next weekend I'll get around to take some pictures of the fashion spreads in the magazines.

2/15/2015

Tine Sews: The Grey Coat

Last weekend I recovered from a night out with colleagues that lasted until 4 am and when I was done with running errants, I started sewing in the afternoon. I had already cut the pieces for the grey coat from my beloved Wool Mix Ede fabric and only had to sew the parts together. 
Then on Sunday I met with a friend to have brunch in the Hafencity in Hamburg and after that we strolled along the Speicherstadt in the most beautiful weather. That's where we took the picture above.
The grey coat is from a pattern mash-up, that I did myself. I used the bodice an sleeves of Burda 128 9/2002 and combined it with the collar and front of Burda 127 9/2002. I figured that, since the patterns are from the same issue, there shouldn't be a problem with matching the parts and apart from the fact that the front pieces where 5 cm longer than the bodice of 128 I could easily combine the two. I drafted a lining from the pattern pieces, but eliminated some seams.
The jacket fron has to diagonal seams that feature pockets. It's a bit weird, that they are lower in the fron than in the side, because it's a bit strange to put your hands in. But it works. And they are the perfect size to store a tablet or keys.
I love the biker jacket feel of the jacket and think that the cream zipper is a nice touch. I could've used a shorter zipper, since I always have to leave the zip a tad bit open to get a smooth collar, but I will think about that, when I use the pattern a second time. I'm dreaming of a red or pink version now.
They feature a diagonal seam in the front, which include a pocket. The pocket is the perfect size to store a tablet or keys. It's a bit strange that they are higher on the side than on the front and first I thought, that it would be strange to put my hands in, but it works.
As on my trenchcoat I have the same issue with a weird pulling on the back. I really need to find the cause of that to be able to change future projects accordingly.
I had the problem that the collar was slightly longer than the back, so I just made a pleat there. It looked weird, when it was open, so I did some handstitching to tack the pleat down. I have to remember cutting the back pieces less wide next time.
The collar is quite wide and topstitched along the edges.The front is fused with fusible interfacing to give it a little more body. There is topstitching along the zipper as well.

The length is just right, only the sleeves could be about three centimentres longer. But I cut the lining on the sleeves a tid bit short when I bagged the lining and so I have to live with it. It's okay, but could be better.
Detail shot of the back, with the top stitching along the pleat.
I thought about adding a coat hanger this time. So much more practical than without.
I hope you like the coat as much as I do! I've worn it almost every day since I finished it and it's perfect it the current chilly weather.

2/08/2015

Tine Sews: The Pink Metallic Trenchcoat

Okay, so I finally got around to take decent pictures of the trenchcoat, that I made during AnNäherung 2015. Please excuse the picture overload, but I just hat to document all the pretty details. 

At first I planned to do the bodice in pink metallic, but leave the sleeves with the right side of the fabric, which is more of a black shade. But then Heidy helped me to decide and on her advice I did the sleeves in the pink shade too and just do the accent tabs on the sleeve in black. I'm really lucky about that decision. We also decided that only the small accents like shoulder tabs and front tab should be in black and all the other pieces in pink.

This is how I wore the coat on the day, after I finished it. I managed to do the whole construction of the coat on the weekend and only had to attach the buttons on the evening, when I returned from Bielefeld. But my colleagues demanded that I wore the finished coat on Monday and so I sewed the fourteen buttons until the late evening.
I'm closing the front in the way of a mens coat, because it works better with the collar and the gun flap. Also, the trench is originally a menswear piece, so why not do it the mens way?
I can wear the trench with a belt, but I prefer it actually without. I think its a good shape and I still haven't found the perfect belt closure, so I can't really belt it anyway.
Also the back looks a little bit strange, when I belt the coat. I had lots of discussion on what to do with the strange pulling of the back under the arms and on the back. I inserted shoulder pads, which Mema kindly brought me and it's better than at the beginning, but it's still pulling strangely. I have the problem with another coat too and I don't know what's wrong with my back. Any ideas?
 Maybe it's coming from the hips? Is it too tight there?
 Here I'm wearing the coat belted.
I'm wearing the coat in these pictures with my me-made jeans and a pair of boots from Bon Prix. The red socks are me-made too.
Here you can see the fabric really nicely. It's a denim and the black side is the right side and the pink metallic one the wrong side. I wanted the pink to be really shiny, so I used the wrong as the right side. The material is cotton and polyester. It's a twill weave. Unfortunately the fabric is sold out already and can't be reordered. I still have enough leftover to make a matching bag.
The pattern is from Burda and it's the classic trench from an issue of 2010. I still had the issue in my stash and traced a 42, that I then cut with seam allowance. The fit is true to size and if there wasn't the problem with the back, I'd definitely make it again. If there is any advice, I might take the Burberry inspiration further and make it in an African wax print again.
On the hanger the back looks good! Maybe it's the shape of my back, which is the problem? I have dropping shoulders, but that can't be the only reason for the pulling, could it be?
I lined the coat with a black acetate lining. I did the sleeves the proper way and learned a new technique which is called "shaking hands" from Wiebke.
The buttons have their own story. I got them off Ebay, where my brother ordered them for me, as I still don't have an Ebay account. They are metallic bronze buttons and they were the cheapest I could find. For this coat the instructions said that I needed 16 buttons. I found some very pretty ones at work, but they were quite expensive, if you nedd 16 of them. So I checked out different shops and even drove especially to a shop in Hamburg, only to find out they're not open on a Saturday. So I found these and still have some buttons leftover, if there should ever go one missing.
I hope you like the trenchcoat as much as I do. I can't wait for spring temperatures to be finally able to wear it more often. It's okay on mild days with a sweater, but it should be perfect in March and April.
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